Oaxaca:

Riding the Camino Reals

I’ve ridden more than a dozen times in the greater Oaxaca area and can chat to you about the overall experiences I’ve had – all good. This missive is about my most recent adventure to the Mixteca Region

The Mixteca region is absolutely stunning. Varied in topography, spectacular  historic churches, mountainous paths, orchids and bromeliads.

Oaxaca City

I usually spend my first day shopping in town at two of my favorite traditional markets anywhere,  the Mercados by the Zocalo . Both the Mercado 20 de Novembre and the Mercado Benito Juarez have great foods, leather goods, produce and more.  I was on a quest to go to my favorite shoe stall to buy new sandals. The sandals are about $20, tooled and colorful leather that last forever. I always get compliments when I wear them and I have them in many colors and designs.   See more about what you can buy and what to eat in my blog ooohing and aahing in Oaxaca.

El Tule and the Ranch

Santa Maria del Tule  – a little south east of Oaxaca – is famous for its giant 2,000 year old Cypress tree that dwarfs the church next to which it was planted. I love eating at a small restaurant, El Milenario, that is across the street. It has excellent margaritas, fresh tortillas and chips and a great selection of well prepared moles.  If you don’t know which mole to order they’ll actually make a tasting for you. If they are in season I recommend the squash blossom quesadillas too.

The landscape around the valley is incredibly varied. From the valley floor with corn and alfalfa growing to the hillsides that are covered with organ and candelabra cactus, plus a variety of native tress . Many are hundreds of years old.  At higher elevations there are pine and oak forests. Flowers are abundant in after the rainy season, lots of morning glory There are ferns too;  the cleverly named resurrection cactus that is dormant until the rain, looks dead, then opens up.

Today’s ride to the, takes you over the ridge from Yanhuitlan through red lands and strange formations that look like Moab in Utah – the valley is amazing. It’s a technical ascent but the horses are sure footed and it’s worth the incredible views. Once over the pass a long valley (the Aguila river which runs along a fault) is ahead, strangely looking like Cappadoccia – the descent is easy and we saw tree orchids, junipers and lots of wild flowers. A few canters along the camino reals speed up the ride. Lunches are delicious  picnics that are set up by the support team and await you. The horses get water and their lunch and fresh scrumptious food refuels you for the afternoon. The lunch break today was at San Bartolo Solyaltepec and included a visit to another ancient church that has a famous codex, and interesting  folk art. The afternoon ride is up over a ridge of oak forest, in addition to oak trees there are mushrooms, bromeliads and orchids. The descent to Coixthaluaca is over soft Tufa – it’s not a marked trail but the guide knows it well.  We spent the night in a very nice little hotel – that can also arrange massages.

The next day was a non-riding day and started with a visit to the convent, still under renovation it has superb examples of Mixtec and Dominican architecture and decorations.  Even if you are not religious you will find these stops enlightening;  the history, art and buildings are fascinating and the restorations worth seeing.  In the afternoon a drive to Apoala – a beautiful canyon that can be hiked – was in order.

The ride to Teotongo takes you over ravines, up hills and across more Tufa, after lunch the landscape changes and there are more flowers, greener hills and cacti.   Teotongo is a little Pueblo with a small family owned hotel, dinner in a private home – very authentic.

For the journey to  San Pablo Teposcolula  we were joined by a local guide/horseman who took us over the mountain. Narrow trails that follow the edge of a canyon; oak, pine and manzanita trees. The first ascent was steep, but the horses are fit and didn’t even pause. Picnic lunch under a HUGE cypress tree, it was hot today so a beer was in order. We came down along side lots of fields and many  cute donkeys too, to a large town.  After settling the horses we found ourselves at an exquisite hotel  in the middle of town. One of the nicest I’ve stayed at anywhere.  It turns out  this town has a rich history and was a major commercial hub in the 17^th century- it’s also known as  Pueblo Magica – wide roads, stone buildings evidence of the long history. The dinner (and breakfast) were delicious. Very traditional foods expertly prepared

Our last day of riding was absolutely stunning. Semi-wild horses running in the canyons; giant cactus, forests festooned with orchids, bromeliads and  moss; wild flowers along the ground. The prettiest and sweetest cattle (we gave them salt). After another delicious picnic we descended to Yanhuitlan, a winding narrow path that afforded continuous views.  A lovely long trot to end the day.

Dinner back at Yanhuitlan was a feast. Traditional Chapuline cream soup, Mole verde and rice. The last morning we visited the incredible church, not only is the architecture and art beautiful but there is a 17^th century Baroque Organ, it is in perfect condition and concerts are held with famous organists visiting to play.

Our last feast was also prepared by the Hacienda, a traditional chicken broth soup with cilantro and avocado and a sublime mole negro with local cheeses.

In summary: I highly recommend this ride. There is a lot of time riding, so it is not for novices or people who find more than 4 hours of riding strenuous. The accommodations are fair to very good and the scenery/historic  buildings are absolutely fascinating. No two days are the same.   Please contact me for more information.

The next day was a non-riding day and started with a visit to the convent, still under renovation it has superb examples of Mixtec and Dominican architecture and decorations.  Even if you are not religious you will find these stops enlightening;  the history, art and buildings are fascinating and the restorations worth seeing.  In the afternoon a drive to Apola – a beautiful canyon that can be hiked – was in order.

The ride to Teotongo takes you over ravines, up hills and across more Tufa, after lunch the landscape changes and there are more flowers, greener hills and cacti.   Teotongo is a little Pueblo with a small family owned hotel, dinner in a private home – very authentic.

Dinner back at Yanhuitlan was a feast. Traditional Chapuline cream soup, Mole verde and rice. The last morning we visited the incredible church, not only is the architecture and art beautiful but there is a 17^th century Baroque Organ, it is in perfect condition and concerts are held with famous organists visiting to play.

Our last feast was also prepared by the Hacienda, a traditional chicken broth soupo with cilantro and avocado and a sublime mole negro with local cheeses.

In summary: I highly recommend this ride. There is a lot of time riding, so it is not for novices or people who find more than 4 hours of riding strenuous. The accommodations are fair to very good and the scenery/historic  buildings are absolutely fascinating. No two days are the same.   Please contact me for more information.