Outstanding Oaxaca

To say that I like Oaxaca might be an understatement I’ve been visiting for more than 10 years and I am never disappointed. The town of Oaxaca remains one of the prettiest UNESCO cities, and I say that having visited quite a few. It is clean, safe and friendly. It is architecturally fascinating and the history of the region will amaze you.

The city is known as the Culinary Capital of Mexico because the food is fabulous. Restaurants prepare sublime unique regional dishes and the markets are full of delicious fruits, vegetables, fish, mole – pronounced mo-le – chocolate and cheeses.

The center of the colonial district is now a pedestrian only area. There are many stalls selling clothing and artifacts – bought by both locals and tourists from what I can tell.  There are also lots and lots of art galleries selling lesser known and famous artists.

Shopping

The largest of the markets in town are the Mercado 20 de Novembre and the Mercado Benito Juarez, the former is one with the most food stands. Both markets are worth visiting and I challenge you to leave without drinking chocolate, tasting mescal, buying mole or leather goods My personal mission is often to replace my sandals:  it’s possible to purchase pretty, well made leather sandals for $20 a pair; the sandals hold up very well.   All sorts of leather goods can be bought, embroidered and etched,  they are very fairly priced – I own at least 3 belts with decorative horses.   In addition to the butchers, cheese and fish mongers,  florists and chapuline sellers there are a number of stalls selling wonderful moles which you can use as a starter when you get home.  There are other smaller markets around town and they are all clean and friendly.

The Museums are definitely worth visiting: there is a fabulous Textile Museum, the fascinating Museum of Oaxacan cultures, a Museum of Contemporary Art and for fans of the artist Rudolfo Morales (who can’t get to see the church he painted in the Ocotlan Valley) you can see more of his work at the Museo de los Pintores. There are many more museums than I’ve listed here.

Gardens include the interesting Botanical garden which houses many of the region’s native plants, it can be an interesting and welcome break from eating, drinking and shopping.

Farther afield you can visit Monte Alban the famous pre-columbian ruins that were the ancient center of the Zapotec and Mixtec cultures. You can also visit Mitla, Yagul, Dainzu and numerous other archaeological sites near the city that are less overrun with tourists.

Food:

Consider this offering as an appetizer, writing about food in Oaxaca would (and does) fill books. These are my personal experiences.

Morning: Oaxacans have a sweet tooth, like most Mexicans, so there are pastry shops and bakeries all around town.  Early in the day I’d recommend grabbing coffee at the wonderful Yalang bakery which also has superb chocolate croissants and often has pan raisin – yum.   Café Bruges is an option, and has free WiFi, but the coffee is rather weak  (as a Peets® / Nespresso® drinker).  In the market you can get hot chocolate, or stop by one of the chain stores Mayodomo that will also make you a cup.

Lunch: One of my favorite Mexican dishes is Chili de Nogada at the wonderful Azuceuna, which is also an art gallery. While Chile de Nogada is not a specialty of Oaxaca, this restaurant makes a superb version. Perfect picadillo and a sublime walnut sauce. I took 3 people there after a riding trip, they all ordered it and all loved it.   Other great options for lunch in Oaxaca include fresh seafood tacos near the market on Calle Murguia, this is not a fancy restaurant but the fish is very, very fresh.

if you don’t mind somewhat rubbish service, there are  some very interesting entrees at Biznaga, the pulque pork looks very unappetizing, but it’s delicious. Other favorites restaurants include La Cathedral (great for brunch, and has a well priced buffet too), Pitonia – trendy, Casa Oaxaca- well known, Mezquite – nice rooftop bar and good appetizers.

If you are in the area on a Sunday, definitely head out to the Tlacolula market. Next to the market is an incredibly ornate church, festooned in silver, don’t miss it. Upon entering the market you will see areas dedicated to breads, cheeses, meats, fruits and vegetables. Keep an eye out for the intricate and beautiful woven baskets for sale. The women from all the villages come to sell their produce, you’ll love their gaily colored outfits.  Once you’ve finished with the eye candy head to get something to eat. My favorite in this market is the Barbacoa a slow cooked (underground) lamb or goat, served with the broth and some radishes and tortillas, a feast of the senses.

After dark: Around the city there are purveyors of Tlayudas – the delicious pizza sized tortillas covered with cheese, beans and your choice of meats. Most are only open in the evening and the best prepare them with grilled onions, avocado, a range of salsas and limes. Definitely worth the wait and visit.

For dinner there are a number of excellent choices, I’d probably go back to Los Danzantes, La Catedral and Mezquite.

Foods you should try in Oaxaca:

• Mole. Of course a visit to Oaxaca would not be complete without feasting on at least a couple of moles. While most Americans are becoming familiar with Mole Negro – made with dark chocolate – try the red Colorado, the Verde or Amarillo or if you are lucky a local chef’s variation using cactus seeds, almonds or a secret recipe. Mole is usually served with chicken or turkey but I have had great vegetarian dishes too.

• Chapuline.  Tasty grasshoppers fried with chile and lime.  I like to buy the really small ones and sprinkle them on a quesadilla or cheese topped tortilla. If you are in the countryside you might see ladies catching them by hand – their reflexes are shockingly good.
• Huitlacoche. A fungus known as corn smut in the US –really delicious especially with a mole negro or in a quesadilla
• Oaxacan cheese – there are so many cheeses made in Oaxaca that you can find one for every recipe. The string version and the fresh are delicious and melt easily. You can get them flavored with herbs and peppers too – definitely look for the ones flavored with epazote.
• Tasajo beef and tasty spiced cecino (pork) and perfect grilled and served with local avocados (they are much smaller than the haas versions) some cheese and crunchy tortillas

What to buy:

Every time I return from Oaxaca my checked luggage is full or honey, mole, mescal, clothes, leather goods and more.  I haven’t bought rugs but friends have – and they are quite beautiful.  While you can buy many rugs in Oaxaca city I recommend you head out to Teotitlan del Valle – a cab ride is cheap – and see where they are made. Teotitlan is a lovely Zapotec village at the foot of the mountain along the Pan American highway. The reason to go is to see a demonstration of rug making and learning about the dyeing process, then buy directly from the artists. Traditional and modern designs are available and they are all made with organic dyes and natural fibers.