What a brilliant decision it was on a rainy Sunday morning to decide to visit Ecuador. To be honest, the country wasn’t on my radar despite my extensive travels, but a friend and I were trying to find a destination neither had been to and Ecuador fit the bill. I started researching and quickly realized that my failure to visit this small but brilliant little country was a major oversight. My friend backed out of the trip when another opportunity to travel elsewhere arose. I decided to go, and I am thrilled that I did. From the jungle, to the mountains, to the coast and even the Galapagos, yes the Galapagos are in Ecuador, it is an absolutely extraordinary country.
When deciding on a destination I of course review my eating and horse riding options. I was happy to see that both looked very encouraging. If you’ve been following me, you know that last year I visited Iceland, a country that gets 3 million visitors despite its lack-luster cuisine, expensive accommodations and interesting but not (in my opinion) spectacular scenery, hikes and glaciers. Iceland is unequivocally overrun with tourists; hordes of buses, campers, cars and people at every scenic spot. Ecuador only gets 300,000 visitors despite it’s unparalleled beauty, splendid and varied topography, jungles, beaches, volcanoes, wildlife, flora and more. It’s truly amazing so even if you read no more, go to Ecuador.
I had only planned 1 week, enough time to visit Quito, take a cooking class, go mountain biking, experience a 4 day horse ride and get in some shopping. I would recommend longer so that you can visit the Amazonian jungle and take a trip to the coast and Galapagos.
Quito, the capital, is a large cosmopolitan city. At about nine and a half thousand feet, it is surrounded by impressive mountains, which are actually volcanoes. Spend a few days in Quito where you can eat fabulous food, both indigenous and haute cuisine, shop for tourist souvenirs and buy the finest alpaca and leather goods.
The cooking class I took included a tour of the central market with the chef; a delightful experience where we learned about the fruits, herbal remedies and other foods – tasting a lot of them too. The cooking lesson was excellent – any meal that ends with chocolate soup is not to be missed. It’s easy to shop at the markets – don’t forget to bargain, it’s expected, but don’t be cheap! Buy an Ecuadorian hat- you’ve heard of them, except they are mistakenly called Panama hats. There are superb handmade versions that are quite expensive and a lot of cheap but ok to look at versions at the markets. Eat and drink chocolate – did you know chocolate originated in Ecuador? You can drink hot versions, buy bars flavored with local fruits and Andean roses and also exquisite hand-made truffles; eat it and take some home for your friends.
It’s an easy city to walk around – though the diesel buses are unpleasant to smell – and you can see all the main sights on foot. The Basillica is beautiful – gothic and decorated with native birds. You can walk up the tower for great views of the city. Other great stops are the San Francisco Church /plaza and Cantuna Chapel, the Cathedral, El Sagrario, the street known as La Rotunda, the various museums, including the City, San and Francisco and Casa del Abad. If you feel up for it, take a hike up to look back at the city from El Panecillo.
Day trips can be arranged from Quito. Mountain bike, hike, visit small villages that specialize in leather goods, go horse riding, take the “Tren de los Volcanoes” an 8 hour round trip down to Machachi or El Boliche. Go north and stand on the equator, buy rugs, blankets, scarves, jewelry, pottery and more from the indigenous people at Otovalo market; believe me, there is something for everyone.
I did the mountain bike ride, with a number of stops to see other sites. Though a long day, it was a great way to see the north. I was the only rider so my guide followed me down the deserted lanes where I saw nothing but cows, birds, butterflies, flowers and marvelous views the entire way. We visited lakes and villages and even stopped at Mitad del Mundo on the way back. My guide was a fountain of knowledge so it was a great day.
Horse Riding
The horse riding was brilliant. The Hacienda, a pretty house amidst lush vegetation surrounded by a working cattle ranch, had well appointed bedrooms with views to the mountains. Meals were either in the original family Hacienda dining room or in the newer ranch room –the latter can accommodate more people. The food was traditional Ecuadorian, tasty soups and entrees, a delicious dessert for lunch and dinner and fruit, yogurt and eggs for breakfast.
The farms, forests and undulating hills surrounding the Hacienda made for great horse riding. Long canters and trots though leafy lanes, misty hills, trees dripping with bromeliads and deep green pasture land, some of the most content and well nourished cattle watching us I have ever seen.
Our overnight trip to the cloud forest was magnificent. We left the Hacienda on our young and fit horses, bred at the Hacienda, in warm sunshine and headed up to the paramo via a village and small eucalyptus forest. Farmlands stretched for miles – though interestingly the land is owned by the military – with wild flowers along the trail verges, cattle and llamas ambling around and the grand mountains in the distance. We stopped for a delicious picnic lunch and then got into our rain-wear – full rubber chaps and ponchos: it was a wise decision. As we ascended the paramo the views were fabulous but the temperature was dropping as a storm approached. By the time we reached the highest part of the trail with a glacier in the distance, we recorded 13,000 feet, it was sleeting on us but we didn’t care as we were staying warm and dry. Bands of loose horses approached us – the Hacienda only uses geldings on the trail so no issues with mares – they were a great vision as they careened down towards and around us. The cloud forest was magical. Our horses were sure footed through the mud and almost seemed small against the giant vegetation. We spent the night at a Hacienda in the cloud forest, with the senora making us hot chocolate and pancakes when we arrived and a tasty dinner by candle light. Before breakfast and riding down to the valley we were given a tour of the forest and orchids for which this hacienda is known; the Senor was charming and showed us many orchids in bloom, plus begonias and flowering trees. We mounted our horses and headed back though the cloud forest and then down through farm lands – potatoes and corn – and more breathtaking views.
I really enjoyed the ride: the horses were responsive and forward moving despite the high elevations, the tack was comfortable, the scenery was astonishing, the food was plentiful and nourishing and the guides charming.
Before you go:
- Multi-day riding trips are not for beginner riders, it’s a long time on the saddle.
- I always take my own riding gear, this trip necessitates water proof boots.
- We were provided with full rubber chaps and ponchos, they also had wool ponchos though it wasn’t cold
- The guides had grown up in the area and are knowledgeable though it would have helped me to speak better Spanish.
- If doing overnight trips take a flashlight/head lamp and depending on the season some warm sleep wear and slippers
In summary: I really loved Ecuador and the riding was excellent.