Traveling during a Pandemic

My decision to travel 9 months into the Covid19 pandemic was not taken lightly. Safety for myself, those I visited, and upon returning home the well-being of my family were all taken into consideration. Having followed the pandemic trajectory in my home state, and that of my destination, coupled with increased cleansing of the planes I felt confident that a trip to the right place could be taken with minimal risk.

So, why travel anyway? In addition to my personal love of travel I wanted to familiarize myself with the current protocols and be able to – as I always do – share my personal experiences traveling. I also think it’s important to support economies that you want to see survive.

I chose Oaxaca as it’s a beautiful city and the surrounding countryside is perfect for riding. Plus, there was an opportunity to stay at Rancho Pitaya where I was confident I would be safe while being able to ride fabulous horses and enjoy splendid food.

cane corridor

Flying: I booked via American Airlines who had a 100% no fee cancellation policy for Mexico. Two days before departure I was sent a health questionnaire link (from the Mexican government via AA.com) that was to be completed, printed and handed in at my destination. On my outbound flight I was fortunate to be in the first row, alone. The plane was clean, everything that was handed out was in a sealed bag, and – though I had brought my own – there was plenty of hand sanitizer. DFW was mostly quiet, lots of sanitizer stations and everyone wearing masks. I could use the American Express (Amex) lounge which was fortunate as there were few dining options at the airport and it’s a full day of travel. The Amex Lounge was open, clean – no self-serve – and lots of social distancing, the perfect place to spend a pleasant hour between flights.

The flight to Oaxaca was uneventful. Upon landing my temperature was taken as soon as I stepped out of the plane. I stepped on a disinfectant mat and handed in my questionnaire – the one I’d completed 2 days ago – and proceeded through customs and immigration as normal.

Oaxaca. To say that I was impressed by the diligence of the Oaxacans is an understatement. To enter a shop, market or restaurant your temperature is taken, you step on a disinfectant mat, your hands are sprayed and of course your mask must be on – covering nose and mouth/chin.  The majority of stores and restaurants were one way in, one way out.  In the city the restaurants had QR code scanned menus, and drinks and food was brought to the table covered. Wait staff had face masks and shields.  A couple of times I was even spritzed – not sure what it does but it’s certainly a positive gesture. The disease is taken very seriously, even in the countryside; I actually saw a chap driving his tractor in the fields wearing his mask.

The ranch: Rancho Pitaya is tucked away in the village of Rojas de Cuauhtemoc, near El Tule, a haven for birds and flowers and heaven for horse lovers.  With only 3 self-contained guest rooms you are able to social distance easily. The staff wore their masks at all times, and all day-time visitors were also masked. There is also a lovely Casa in the colonial part of the city, with the same ownership, where you can spend your days shopping, visiting galleries and/or sitting by the pool.

The food: Everything we ate was fabulous: authentic Oaxacan cuisine plus many dishes from other regions. Despite the pandemic all the fruits and vegetables were fresh and delicious; local cheeses and honey, plus occasionally an egg from one from the ranch hens.  Vegetarians were easily accommodated and there was an ample supply of refreshing beers, wines and locally produced mescal-based cocktails – the ginger/tamarind one was delicious.

The horses. From the youngsters still in training, Trail Blazer and Niza, to the wise but still forward-moving Centurian and trusty Piquin there is a great array of horses to ride. If you are a fan of donkeys you can wile away some time watching Bonita, who is very entertaining.

What to know before you go.

Flying: The TSA has approved up to 12 oz bottles of sanitizer in your carry-on. They will check the bottle at the scanners in the USA, which does add to some time getting through security. Note, foreign screeners are not aware of this change so you’ll need a smaller 3 oz bottle, or disinfectant wipes for your flights back to the USA.

Recent research from Harvard states that the actual plane is very safe with recirculated air carrying minute traces of bacteria, wearing a mask seems to solve that problem.  Airports are adjusting at varying levels of success, San Francisco seemed better organized than DFW but it was easy to self-distance at all times.

Masks:  Many people still wear a mask, not the valve type that only protects you, to fly and enter stores. Oaxaca has many beautiful masks for sale, so you can stock up while there.

Traveling around Oaxaca. The local taxis that I took were clean, they all had put up a plastic screens between the driver and passenger. Remember, they only take cash.  Many of the more remote, indigenous, villages are currently closed to outsiders. Please respect the closed gates, it’s for their protection from Covid19.

Birding: The owner of Rancho Pitaya is an avid and experienced birder. She provides local check lists and also binoculars.

Testing: No currently required

Learn more about the area  “Outstanding Oaxaca”

In summary, if you are wise and careful you can have a brilliant riding holiday in a beautiful climate even during a Pandemic.

horse cart
Spirit in Dainzu
centurian at the Hacienda