Riding in the Geres park and Bico Forrests

Portugal remains a popular destination for travelers of all types and interests. For those wanting an equine experience the possibilities include dressage clinics, trail rides south of Lisbon and a wonderful experience in the far north of the country in Portugal’s largest national park, home to the wild Garrano horse.

Before heading north: Porto. With a tremendous history Porto is a great start to any trip in northern Portugal. Sitting along the banks of the Douro and the Atlantic ocean it is a historic city undergoing a massive rebirth.

The ride

The horses, beautiful Arabians, Lusitano crosses, and even a couple that have bred with the native Garrano horses, though the latter were unplanned! These are well trained horses, while you mostly ride single file, it’s not a “nose to tail” ride. It took a bit of getting used to the saddles Carlos uses, but after a couple of days it was ok. A seat saver might have helped, the feel and stirrup position, but  is more of a jumping saddle than a trail version.

The terrain; the first 3 days are spent in the park and riding through local villages. There are multiple opportunities to see the wild horses, that also mingle amongst the local cattle, and there are areas for some steady and occasionally fast paced canters. The footing is good and the horses are sure footed. Some of the views are spectacular, you can see Spain easily! Depending on the season there can be an abundance of wild flowers and waterfalls too. The second three days are spent in the Bico forest and riding to the peak. Again, great views, amazing flora and picturesque villages every day. Every village has pristine water for the horses to drink, and even fill your water bottle.

Rustic country food. I prefer Portuguese food to Spanish, it seems less greasy, and you won’t be hungry on this trip. At the Quinta we had breakfast together, Carlos’s wife stocks the fridge and made sure we had everything we needed. One night we BBQ’d and Carlos kindly got us fresh sardines as they were in season. On the trail there are lunches at local restaurants and one day you stop and have lunch at the home of 3 delightful elderly sisters. The sisters make you traditional soup, will pour your their own version of grappa and are one of the highlights of the trip. Evening dinners are also in local restaurants, with the opportunity to sample the unique local cuisines, including beef from the native cattle in Geres park.

This is a ride for intermediate and above riders, you spend about 5 hours a day in the saddle. That said, if riders of lessor capabilities are in the group, Carlos does his best to make sure everyone has the ride they want/need.

Accommodation

The majority of the nights are spend at Quinta do Fijo which is lovely. In addition to the main house their are two cabins and a 2 bedroom cottage – which on our trip became the base. The  Quinta is clean and comfortable, with a nice swimming pool for post ride dips and plenty of space to relax. Plus, you are steps from the horses. Two nights are spent at an old Manor house, it’s been recently renovated  but clean and comfortable – with great pastures for the horses.

Culture

Carlos is a gem, he might be my favorite guide ever. He is very proud of his home and will regale you with stories of the local culture, fauna and flora. This area is different to Lisbon or even Porto, it’s rural with a great history – you’ll ride on roman roads and through ancient byways.

Nubia

After the ride

Carlos will return you to Porto (or Vigo if you opt for that airport) and I strongly suggest you spend a few more days in Porto. There is a lot to see, buy and eat/drink: not limited to:

  • great linens and laces
  • port of course – I recommend stopping at Quinto do Noval
  • try some vino verde – when it’s young
  • visit the library – buy tickets on line in advance
  • eat at Gruta – an excellent (Brazillian owned) restaurant
  • take a short river cruise – its’s a great way to get perspective of the impact of the Duoro
  • buy cork purses, coasters, etc

Before you go:

  • Contact Carlos at Quinto do Fijo to get an up-to-date calendar and pricing
  • The traffic in Porto is bad, leave lots of time to get into/out of town
  • If you fly via Lisbon and connect to Porto the Lisbon airport can be slow, especially for arrivals. You can also book a driver from Lisbon to Porto (or the other way round) for the same cost as 2 RT airline tickets.
  • No matter the season take waterproof riding jackets
  • I recommend a seat saver
  • Water bottles are provided.