Peru – Salkantay, mountains and more

Most people who plan to visit Macchu Picchu either hike the Inca trail from Ollantaytambo or take the train. I decided the best way to get there was a horse over the Salkantay trail.

The Salkantay is a well traveled mule trail, a service that continues now as it’s the only way to get supplies into the remote  mountains. The mules are small and sturdy and seem well cared for.

It’s not a difficult ride, but be prepared for a lot of saddle time.  The views are really spectacular, beautiful visits, wild flowers, interesting trees (as you descend) and an occasional bird soaring far above.

There were opportunities to trot and canter on the first couple of days and long canters on the last day. The ascent, pass over Salkantay and descent were at a walk.

From the first day approaching the lodge (home for the first two nights)  to the last the guides were fabulous. Their knowledge of the area, peoples, customs, food,  flowers and trees is exemplary. They carry oxygen ( which I didn’t need) and a full emergency kit.   Leon would often hop off his horse to pick up something to show us and explain all about it.  We were fortunate to see quite a few Inca ruins and temples  – with no other westerners lurking!

We had the chance to meet a Shaman, he only spoke Quecha – and looked rather like Robin Williams – so the guides translated. We rode up a valley, amongst cows and some loose horses, tied the horses and hiked up to a glacial lake. The Shaman had walked from a distant village  to perform a ceremonial offering to Mother Earth and the heavens. I found it fascinating how he’d incorporated modern candy and accoutrements into his ceremony, it was a very spiritual afternoon.  Evenings were relaxed, dinner comprised local foods and  wine/ beer. Early nights. A nice touch, hot water bottles in the beds when we turned in at night.

Riding up to the Salktantay pass is a long day. The green lush valleys give way to rocky narrow  trails with steep drop offs. Lichen and flowers still dotted the hills so it was lovely.

We would pull over when needed for the donkeys to pass, our horses could care less that the donkeys were passing carrying propane tanks, bags of grain and more.

At the peak we hopped off, had snacks and let the horses rest. Despite being grey brown all around, with snowy glaciers above, it was still quite beautiful.

The decent to lunch seemed quite quick, by lunch we were in a green meadow.

As you descend you start to see fields of corn, granadilla vines and rocoto peppers. The foliage increases and rivers are flowing.  We stopped to buy fresh fruit for eating on the trail and dinner – granadilla for our evening cocktails.

One advantage of riding the Salkantay trail is that you get to see Macchu Picchu from above at a distance – most people are not so lucky.   Full disclosure this is a walking day: we rode for 5 days and hiked 1 day, spent 1 day at Macchu Picchu.  The hike is not a killer but it’s strenuous.  The lodge the night before is at about 7000 feet, you hike up to 9000 feet and then hike down to the railway. It’s a looong way down. A walking stick is recommended.

The town of Aguas Calientes is unique – it suffered terrible flooding recently but I understand has been restored – both because it is the gateway to Macchu Picchu and full of tourists from every corner of the earth and because there are lots of Peruvians making the trek to see part of their important heritage.

I would recommend this ride to any intermediate and above rider. It isn’t technical riding but it does require good muscles and a comfortable seat.

Before you go:

  • The outfit with whom I rode are excellent, Peruvian owned, horse lovers
  • If you have a companion that hikes rather than rides, they can hike and meet you for lunch dinner etc. It’s a BIG hike even though they don’t walk the same trails.
  • The guides are excellent, they apprentice for at least 2 years.
  • Altitude sickness. Consider Dimox. Altitude sickness can hit anyone. You can’t get to a lower elevation and while the guides and lodges have oxygen it’s easier to help your body adjust.
  • Make sure you have medical insurance that will cover you in case of emergencies
  • You will not go hungry, there are snacks, lunches and great dinners.
  • You HAVE to hike at least 1 day, it’s a pretty big hike. You will need hiking boots.
  • Getting to Macchu Picchu by bus is an ordeal – unless you stay at the Belmon it’s the only way to get there – be prepared for a long line and hair raising drive up the mountain.