The Basics:
Iceland is a large land mass – about 40k square miles – with less than 350,000 thousand people living there permanently, but besieged by more than 3 million tourists annually. The country is famous for its geothermal activity/hot springs, waterfalls, glaciers and active volcanoes.
Settled by the Vikings, who apparently picked up some pretty red headed Irish lasses on the way (you’ll see quite a few red headed natives) it is the oldest Democracy, dating back to the 10th century. Independence from Denmark came in 1944 whereupon Iceland joined NATO.
Reykjavik, the capital and largest city is in the southwest and home to two thirds of the population, though it never feels crowded.
It’s a cold place to visit, even in the summer – the Gulf stream does improve the temperatures however, winds from the north can keep it quite chilly and its northern latitude assures very cold and dark winters.
Currency :
Icelandic Krona (ISK) – Credit cards are widely accepted
Language:
Icelandic (a difficult language to learn for English speakers!) Most Icelanders learn English and Danish so it isn’t necessary to learn the language.
Religion:
Christian. 80% of Icelanders are Lutheran.
Time Zone:
The same as the UK i.e. + 5 hours from New York New Year’s eve. Iceland doesn’t follow daylight savings time so adjust your watch based on that knowledge.
Visiting
Getting there: Situated in the North Atlantic accessible by major airlines ( Icelandair, United, SAS, WOW, Delta etc. ) and a ferry from Denmark (almost 4 days) . The airport is south of the city about 45 minutes by car.
Destination ( 1 week +) ? =
Iceland has been on everyone’s list since 2010 when the Eyjafjallajӧkull volcano blew up in March and made everyone aware of the country: the Icelanders were horrified when I told them we call the Volcano E15 because we can’t pronounce the name. I am probably going to cause offence here but I don’t think Iceland is a Destination, it’s a stopover, unless you are in western Europe and can hop over for a weekend. Why do I say that?
- it’s expensive – seriously expensive. In 2018 I spent US$57 for a hot dog, 1 small glass of wine, 1 beer and a bowl of Pho. Gourmet dinners, without wine, were more than US$100 per person
- there are interesting hikes, enormous glaciers and pretty waterfalls but there are lots of other places with these
- there are geo thermal pools and spas, again not unique
- the food isn’t that out of the ordinary – and you can get the same or similar ingredients elsewhere, better and/or for less
- Northern Lights – you can see these in many places on the planet.
Stopping over =
Having said I don’t think it’s a destination I highly recommend a 3 or 4 day stop over – Icelandic Air even price tickets to allow this from the US.
What to do/see on a stopover?
Summer
Rent a car or book a tour and spend a day seeing the Golden Circle:
- Starting with Thingvellir which is the site of the world’s first parliament, dating back to the year 930 AD ish. There are markers where the original structures were, but none remain today. It’s a spectacular walk through the valley, along the glacial lake, where you can see the two continental plates, upon which Iceland sits, drifting apart. There is a small gift shop at the parking area.
- Move on to see the large Gullfoss waterfall and the Strokkur geyser which erupts about every 6 minutes (the word geyser is Icelandic!) If you have time go to see the Skogafoss waterfall, you can walk behind it!
Spend the day in Reykavik.
- Book a walking eating tour – while the food won’t wow you some of it is quite tasty and it’s a good way to get a lay of the land and a less expensive way to experience the local cuisine. Warning: You will be offered cured horse – if this does not appeal, let them know.
- Explore the massive Hallgrimskirkja church, walk along bay to the old harbor, pop in to the Harpa concert hall (another nice gift shop) and see how many street signs you can spot sporting small toys – that are mysteriously placed by locals.
- Take in a museum: Maritime, Art, National history, National museum, the Settlement and the Culture house, Photography and more; including, should you so wish, Reykjavik’ Penis museum.
- Visit a thermal pool, there are quite a lot within the city, including Laugardalslaug and Sundhollin to name but two.
Explore the great outdoors
- Take a whale watching cruise – some include stops to see puffins – though these usually nest high on the cliffs
- Visit the Blue Lagoon – fair warning, reservations required and it’s getting heavily booked in advance. The best way to enjoy this, in my opinion, is to book lunch, then you have a lovely day ahead of you with far less hassle. Alternatively go to the Secret Lagoon, not so secret but not as touristy.
- Hike a glacier, ride a quad, explore a cave
- Go birding – apparently there are 278 species that live or migrate to Iceland. The puffin is of course cute and there are razorbills and Skuas; but I’m thinking this is for people who have already ticked their bird chart off everywhere else.
- Ride an Icelandic pony
Winter:
You can do much of the above wearing warmer clothes and boots, but you can also
- See the Northern Lights.
- Go snowmobiling
- Skiing and snowboarding are both available – no trees so no tree skiing!
What to eat and drink
The food in Iceland did not impress me, especially considering the price; this goes for cheap eats and gourmet restaurants. Tomatoes, lettuce and cucumbers are grown in geothermal greenhouses, and there is domestic cheese production, but all tree fruit and most other items are imported, hence the lofty prices.
- Lamb is available widely, including in hot dogs – you’ll see sheep everywhere
- Atlantic Char is a tasty local fish. I didn’t see much cod, I was told its almost all exported.
- Hot dogs – there is a famous stand in Reykjavik (BBP) with long lines that move quite quickly. The dog is made from lamb and comes covered in raw and grilled onions, a homemade ketchup and mustard.
- Plokkfiskur at Messin Seafood Restaurant..traditional and quite tasty
- Rye bread Ice-cream at Café Loki ..delicious.
- DON’T eat Puffin or Whale – it’s tacky, touristy and cruel. If tourists stop eating it then the fisherman will stop killing them
What to bring home:
- Clothing: If you like wool, the sweaters (jumpers) are very nice and warm and made by hand. There are also some Icelandic brands of outdoor gear that are very good.
- Delicious jams from local crowberries and Iceland sea salts flavored with lichen and lave
- Chocolates from Omnom, they taste great and the packaging is very pretty
- Brennivin the Icelandic alcohol – though it’s available overseas now
What you should know before you go
- As I mentioned above, Iceland is expensive, be prepared.
- Getting to/from the airport to Reykjavik city is over $100 each way by taxi
- Buy alcohol to bring with you or like a local, at Duty free when you land, before entering the country.
- The Icelandic people are really very nice and very liberated (Women have been able to vote since 1915 and make up more than 40% of the parliament and 44% of company boards)
- Bring warm clothes, layers, hats, gloves and scarf.
- The majority of hotels were nice, select one that includes breakfast, preferably downtown so you can walk in Reykjavik. There are some further out but they really aren’t convenient.
- The explosion in tourism means that there will be busses and cars, dozens and dozens, at every spot you visit. Legions of people trekking, and because some tourists have been disrespectful a number of private landowners have closed off access.
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